Saturday, October 12, 2013

Pork Ragu--My Revised Version

Several months ago the New York Times ran an article and recipe for pork ragu as served at a Manhattan restaurant. That version was more of a carne en brodo meal than the one that I have devised from it. My cooking is similar to my quilting  in that I start with an idea that I see somewhere else and then manipulate that idea to fit my own tastes and needs. So this is similar to the recipe the NYTimes gave out but is not the same in several places, beginning with the very first step.

The original recipe was for more people than usually eat at my table (empty nest couple) and even this version makes leftovers but that isn't always a bad thing. Start this earlier in the day because it needs some cooling time prior to completion. None of the steps is difficult but the whole dish takes time so a weekend is a better bet for most people.

One small pork shoulder or Boston butt. I don't always check the weight but somewhere between 3 and 4 pounds is about right. Don't worry about the skin or fat on the shoulder.
1 fresh fennel bulb, white part only, sliced lengthwise into thin strips
1 or 2 white onions depending on how large they are and how much you like onions
1 or 2 stalks of celery sliced including leaves
1 quart chicken stock
a nice handful of fresh thyme, stems and all and a nice handful of fresh sage leaves tied together with kitchen string
1 or 2 garlic cloves sliced thin
salt and pepper
a little canola oil

Some pasta, some lemon juice, some shaved Parmesan cheese, some fresh arugula or fresh raw spinach leaves.

Preheat your oven to 300 F. In an ovenproof pot (Calphalon or something similar) heat up a small amount of oil. Brown your pork on all sides, and season with salt and pepper. Remove from pan and place on plate while you continue with the recipe.  Throw the fennel, onion, and celery into the pan and cook until softened. Then add the garlic and the bouquet garni (herbs) and cook until you smell the garlic easily from a standing position rather than leaning over the pot. Put the meat back in the pot, add the chicken broth, then put the pot in the oven with the cover on. Let cook in oven for about 3 to 4 hours until the meat is thoroughly cooked. Timing depends on size of shoulder. Remove from oven and remove meat from pot to a bowl or board to cool down.

While the meat is cooling, remove the bouquet garni from the broth and discard. Drain the liquids from the solids but reserve both. Skim fat from the liquid. When the meat is cool enough to handle, pull off the thick skin and fat layer, then pull the rest of the meat apart, stripping it of fat and tendons as you work. You will have a lot of meat and it is up to you how much you put in the final dish.  Place the meat that you will use back in the pot and add enough of the cooking liquid to nearly, but not quite, cover. If there is other meat left, place in sealable bag or similar container and refrigerate or freeze. Then blend or process the soft vegetables and add them to the pot and stir to coat.

When it is just about dinner time, cook some pasta (broad flat types are good). When the pasta is cooking reheat your meat mixture. When the pasta is done, drain and add to the meat mixture, stir to mix and coat with sauce.To serve, put some fresh arugula or raw spinach in the bottom of individual bowls. Top with the meat, vegetable, and pasta mixture. Let everyone add fresh lemon juice and parmesan cheese to taste.

The original recipe did not brown the meat, threw away the vegetables, and had no garlic. It makes more of a soup course though a filling one. The leftover broth, if any, can be used for all sorts of recipes including hot and sour or wonton soup.  If there is any leftover meat it can be changed entirely into pork enchiladas, or chili verde or something.

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